A Short History Of Surfing In Kauai

Kauai—the Garden Island—has countless outdoor adventure opportunities from the mountains of Kokee State Park to the secluded coastline of Mahaulepu Beach and more. Though the adventures you can find inland on Kauai are truly unforgettable, you can’t overlook the beautiful Hawaiian ocean and the fun it has to offer.

The culture of Hawaii values the ocean in unique ways. The ocean is and has always been an instrumental part of life in Hawaii. It is a deep-rooted part of Hawaiian culture and a key component in one of the integral activities in Hawaii’s past, present, and future—surfing.

Though Oahu tends to be more frequently highlighted in the world of surfing with the numerous professional surfing competitions that take place on Oahu’s north shore, Kauai has an equally captivating environment to try out the treasured sport.

Before you paddle out into the lineup for the first time, it is important to have a basic understanding of why people on Kauai take surfing so seriously.

History of Surfing In Hawaii

The exact origins of surfing aren’t known for sure, but surfing’s origins are thought to be rooted in Polynesian culture. As an island culture, Polynesians lived close to the water and were very comfortable being in and around the ocean. The ocean was regarded as a spiritual thing that was closely tied to religion.

When Polynesians came to Hawaii, they brought he’e nalu, or surfing, with them and it quickly became a part of Hawaiian culture. The islands offered a variety of waves all great for different styles of surfing, longboarding, and shortboarding.

Shaping a board, getting in the water, and riding the waves were all sacred things in Hawaiian culture. Prayers and spiritual chants were practiced before and during surfing. Surfing was not just a spiritual ritual though; it also was used as a way of gaining and proving status. People competed to resolve conflicts and win favor or status, bringing with it financial or even social gain.

Boards were carved using one of three different types of wood: koa, ‘ulu, and wiliwili. Cutting the tree to harvest the wood was a spiritual practice wherein the rider would place a sacrificed fish into the base of the tree as a religious offering. Because the boards were made of solid wood, they could weigh up to 175 pounds!

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Art by Ron Croci

That being said, not everyone was allowed to surf any board or wave they wanted. Surfing was integrated into Hawaii’s caste system where those of higher status had more rights than the lower class.

The royal class rode longer boards up to 24 feet, while commoners were limited to using smaller boards up to 12 feet.

Social status also limited where you could surf. Royalty got their choice of the best surf breaks, usually the longest and smoothest rides, while commoners were left to surf the less preferred breaks where the waves broke with a steeper and shorter ride. The two groups would not intermingle in the lineup. In fact, a commoner riding the same wave as royalty was a crime punishable by death in some instances.

The Influence of Surfing

Though surfing has always been a part of culture in Hawaii, it hasn’t always been as popular as it is today. When settlers arrived in Hawaii in the 1770s, surfing began to lose its popularity. The influence of Christianity turned people away from native spiritual practices that were determined by the missionaries to be sinful, like surfing.

Hawaiians were forced to work on plantations and no longer had the time to continue the practice of surfing as regularly. Even if they had the time, the sport was looked down upon and shamed. Thankfully for many surfers today, this negative view of surfing did not stop the practice entirely.

Many years later, King Kalakaua helped to break down the stigma surrounding the sport and it began to make a comeback. Following this shift, Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic swimmer in the early 1900s, began to share the tradition in various places around the world. He traveled to coastal areas, like California and Australia, and introduced surfing. The conditions in these locations provided a perfect setting for the love of surfing to take root and influence other cultures.

Since the introduction of surfing around the globe, competitions have sprung up among various skill levels and age groups. Nowadays, surfing competitions range from small-scale local competitions for kids to large-scale world tours.

Titus Kinimaka surfing an enormous wave

Kauai’s Famous Surfers

Though Kauai is a smaller island with fewer professional surfers being from Kauai, there are still a few well-known surfers that you may not have realized were from Kauai. The 2011 film Soul Surfer highlights the story of one of these well-known Kauai surfers, Bethany Hamilton, who, despite getting her arm bitten off by a shark at only 13 years old, still went on to become a professional surfer along with her close friend, Alana Blanchard. Bethany Hamilton had this happen at Tunnels Beach on the North Shore of Kauai, a well-known surfing spot.

Bethany Hamilton who had her arm bit by a shark, ended up being a pro surfer

Also from Kauai, the Irons brothers—Andy and Bruce Irons—both won world titles during their surfing careers. Both from the town of Hanalei on Kauai’s north shore, the brothers are well respected in the surfing community. Andy’s unfortunate passing also inspired films such as Andy Irons: Kissed by God that highlighted different aspects of his life, including his skill in competitive surfing as well as his struggles with addiction and bipolar disorder.

Titus Kinimaka, a big wave surfer from the north shore of Kauai, also made a name for himself in the surfing community. He was taught to surf by his older brother, Percy, who was mentored by famous Hawaiian surfer, Duke Kahanamoku. Titus was also involved in a few films, including the award-winning surf documentary, Nihi. Now, Kinimaka teaches at his surf school, Titus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing in Hanalei.

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Kauai Surfing Today

Nowadays, surfing is done for both fun and competition. On Kauai specifically, you can watch kids of all ages competing in the National Scholastic Surfing Association’s competition on the south side of Kauai at PKs. The Hawaii Surf Association also hosts various competitions at Pine Trees, PKs, Kealia, and other local surf breaks.

If you happen to find yourself on Kauai during Halloween, you can also check out Aloha Exchange’s yearly surfing event, the Montest, where individuals of all ages dress up in Halloween costumes to surf at Donovan’s Reef.

If you’re looking to try your hand at surfing, there are surfing lessons available on multiple sides of the island. As mentioned above, Titus Kinimaka’s surf school is a great place to absorb the wealth of experience and learn from one of the best on Kauai’s north shore.

Young boy learning to surf at Titus Kinimaka’s surf school

In Hanalei, you can also find Hanalei Surf School and Hawaiian Surfing Adventures. On the east side of Kauai, you can find lessons with East Side Surfing School and Kauai Beach Boys. Sunny Poipu hosts the most surf lessons though, with companies like Kauai Surf School, Endless Summer Surf School, Aloha Surf Lessons, Poipu Beach Surf School, Hawaiian Style Surfing, Hoku Water Sports, and Poipu Kauai Surf Academy.

Why not embrace the culture of surfing while on vacation in Kauai? After all, you won’t find a better place to start your surfing journey than in the stunning ocean on Kauai!